Tag Archives: Italy travel

Strangers on a Train

A question that often arises in the travel forums is: “What’s it like to travel in Italy with small kids?”

Speaking from my own experience, it’s great. Italians love kids, and, when you enter a train compartment with a child in Italy, you don’t get the suffering looks that you get when boarding a plane with one in the US. Everyone’s ready to ooh and aah and spoil your child rotten. Well, almost everyone.

When Rossella was three or so, we had occasion to go to Rome by train. We ended up in a compartment with four middle-aged ladies. Three of them were travelling together, and were happy to spend the entire five-hour trip entertaining Ross, who laughed and was charming and sat on their laps.

The fourth lady was travelling alone, and seemed to be allergic to children. She would draw away whenever Ross got near her, and throughout the trip showed clearly, by grimaces and sighs, that sharing a train compartment with a child was akin to being in the seventh circle of hell.

Ross, of course, was not oblivious to this. She tried her best to draw the lady out, with all her most adorable three-year-old wiles. Nothing worked, and Ross was disappointed – she was accustomed to wrapping adults around her little finger.

Towards the end of the trip, Ross looked the lady full in the face and said: “Tu sei brutta. E pure antipatica.” – “You’re ugly, and you’re not nice.”

I made all the polite remonstrances that the occasion demanded, but the other three ladies and I had to avoid looking at each other, so as not to burst out laughing. It was hard to fault Ross, who had spoken the truth as she saw it, with brutal three-year-old candor.

 

Dressing for Italy: Tips for Tourists

^ top: Ross & Enrico – dressed for a wedding, I admit

Foreign travelers to Italy sometimes ask how to to dress so as not to look out of place among the fashionable Italians. This question is hard to answer; much depends on your sex, age, and personal style.

It’s easiest to start with some fashion don’ts:

  • No track suits, sweat suits, or the like, and no baggy sweatshirts. Well, really, no baggy anything.
  • No fanny packs.
  • No daypacks or backpacks, unless you’re in your 20s or younger.
  • No clunky white sports shoes. Younger Italians do wear sports shoes, even when not doing sports, but these are usually sleek and stylish models (including some brands very familiar to Americans), and are never dirty or scuffed or worn down.
  • No t-shirts, especially not with big pictures or slogans on them, again, unless you’re under 30.
  • No shorts, especially not for men.

Now some do’s:

  • In general, Italians dress more formally than Americans. Blue jeans are fine, as long as they are well-fitting, clean, and in good condition (or any damage is intentional and fashionable) – Levis are very trendy and even expensive in Italy.
  • Men, always wear collared shirts (polos are okay).
  • Wear dark or subdued colors, except in summer. Even then, Italians wear white or pastels, not the bright purples and blues that many Americans like.
  • As a tourist you’ll be walking a lot, so I do recommend very comfortable shoes, even though this seems never to be a consideration for Italians, at least not for women, who routinely walk all over town with things on their feet that I couldn’t even stand up in.
  • Designer labels are always a plus.

Of course, how you dress is always entirely up to you, and no one is going to jeer at you even if you commit every single one of the fashion “sins” listed above. The question I’m responding to came from people who wanted to know how to fit in, and that’s what I’ve done my best to answer, with some expert advice from my Milan-raised, extremely stylish, teenage daughter. (I admit I cheated – in the photo above, my daughter and husband are dressed for a wedding!)

Travelling by Train in Italy

Finding Your Train

In every station in Italy there are posters (printed on yellow paper) of the usual schedules for Partenze (Departures) for that station. Find the time and train you are taking, and the column furthest to the right will show the platform (binario) that that train USUALLY departs from. 99% of the time it will in fact use that platform, unless some other train being late throws things off.

That’s why you need to also keep an eye on the electronic departures board, usually large and centrally located (shown is a departures board at Milan’s Central Station). Most of the time, if there is a change of track, it will be to a track near the usual one, so if you position yourself near the usual track but where you can still see the board, you’ll be in plenty of time to move to the new track.

In larger stations, there is also a rolling display and/or a TV screen at the head of the track which will update as soon as new info for that track is posted.

And don’t be afraid to ask – even the Italians are left wondering sometimes, so you won’t look any stupider than anybody else.

If you are going to the station to meet somebody, look for the analogous Arrivi(Arrivals) poster, printed on white paper. There is also an electronic Arrivals board updated in real-time. Both arrivals and departures are usually announced via loudspeaker as well, but these can be hard to understand in the bustle of a busy station.

Don’t Forget to Stamp Your Ticket!

No matter what kind of ticket you have, you must stamp it before getting on the train. Look for a little yellow machine like this one, positioned at the head of or alongside the track, as you enter the station, and usually in any underpass tunnels in the station.

If you forget to stamp the ticket or can’t find a machine that works (this happens), as soon as you get on the train, look for the conductor (at the beginning of the journey, they’re usually in the first car) and explain the situation; he will hand stamp it for you. 

Bridging the Holidays: Extra-Long Weekends in Italy

Last weekend was the real start of the holiday season for Italians, even though shops and towns started decorating a few weeks ago. The Feast of the Immaculate Conception [of the Virgin Mary], a national holiday, falls on December 8th.

These days, the holiday is mostly enjoyed as a long weekend and the start of the ski season, when families can get away to the mountains because the kids are off school. Shops are open, even on Sunday, because this is also the start of the Christmas shopping season, as Thanksgiving is for Americans.

The Milanese often get an extra-long holiday: December 7th is the day of Milan’s patron saint, Ambrose. Every city and town in Italy has a patron, and therefore a holiday on the saint’s day. This year the Milanese lose out: December 7th was a Sunday, and Milanese schoolkids were in school on Saturday.

So why were the Lecchesi off school Saturday? December 6th is the feast of San Nicolo’, Lecco’s patron – this must be the same Saint Nicholas who puts gifts in the shoes of good little children in Germany on this date (hence the legend of Santa Claus). I had thought San Nicolo’s day was in late June, when we had fireworks and the blessing of the lake, but I now know that that was simply a “Feast of the Lake,” with a rite performed in Nicolo’s name.

When I was a kid, Americans celebrated George Washington’s birthday and Abraham Lincoln’s birthday on their respective actual dates, both in February. Nowadays this has been slimmed down to a generic “Presidents’ Day,” always celebrated on a Monday, though most states now also give a holiday for Martin Luther King.

The Italians have not succumbed to the American habit of making holidays “efficient.” Americans set these floating holidays on a Monday or a Friday so as to assure themselves a three-day weekend. The Italians simply take il ponte (the bridge): if a holiday falls on anything other than Monday or Friday, many people will simply take off the extra day(s) in between, creating a long weekend. Schools have long since bowed to the inevitable, and made all the bridges official school holidays. Some schools even have a week-long holiday in February, in hopes that everyone will go off for their settimana bianca (“white week” – ski holiday) at the same time, minimizing the disruption to teaching.

The Lecchesi have beaten the Milanese at holiday bridges. If December 6th and December 8th are holidays, there is no way anyone’s going to school on the 7th, no matter what day of the week it is.

Catholic Dogma

Dec 17, 2003

I have a lot of Catholics subscribers, it turns out (including one who, as I already knew, is an Augustinian monk and priest), so my confusion over the Immaculate Conception has been cleared up.

“The Feast of the Immaculate Conception celebrates the conception of Mary herself, not that of Jesus. According to Catholic dogma, Mary is the only human to have ever been conceived without original sin. Supposedly this was a pre-requisite for Jesus’ birth, and was foretold by the prophets.

As Catholic dogma goes, this element has been argued back and forth through time, and was only made a permanent fixture in 1854.

You can find a (relatively) brief summary of the history of the IC’s observance here.

A longer discussion, with Biblical evidence for it is here.”

John Francini

American Holidays

Dec 17, 2003

Julie, our correspondent in Austin, responded: “You might be interested to know that Confederate Heroes Day combines the birthdays of Robert E. Lee (Jan. 19) and Jefferson Davis (June 3).” And you’ll notice that it falls very close to (or on) Martin Luther King Day. I’ve heard that some state agencies give their employees the option to take one holiday or the other… but that may just be a rumor.”

Scheduling Holidays

Aug 25, 2004

Prime Minister Berlusconi a few months ago proposed to increase Italian productivity by canceling some holidays, and rescheduling others to fall on Fridays or Mondays and do away with the costly ponte. Predictably, there was screaming and jeering from all fronts.

If you check the helpful US consulate calendar, you’ll see why: most of the holidays are religious ones of long standing. Probably the Pope would scream at any attempt to change them in the name of mere economics, and most Italians would defend them in the name of tradition, even though they aren’t very practicing Catholics.

The Communists (yes, we still have them) would scream if Labor Day were touched – after all, it’s meant to be a day off to celebrate the workers. That leaves the days which commemorate historical events: Liberation Day (liberation from the Nazis and defeat of the Fascists, April 25, 1945), and Republic Day (June 2, 1946, when Italy voted to be a republic instead of a monarchy). The latter has been created (or reinstated) fairly recently by President Carlo Azeglio Ciampi, in a quixotic effort to foster a sense of nationalism and patriotism among Italians – he’s also behind the recent proliferation of the Italian tricolore flag.

Berlusca would also like to reduce the number of vacation days granted to Italian employees. Yeah, right, good luck with that… He himself needs all the holiday time he can get, for cosmetic surgery! I’m not kidding – he had a facelift last Christmas, and a hair transplant just now.

Aug 30, 2004

Aldo tells me: “This has already been tried some 20 years ago.They removed some religious feasts from the calendar, including January 6 (the Epiphany) and June 29 (the feast of St. Peter and St. Paul). Some years later they were forced by popular demand to reinstate Jan. 6th as a holiday. Too bad June 29th was not reinstated – it’s my birthday, and it was fun to have a 100% sure day off for that!”

The Italian Holiday Season Begins

The Christmas season is upon us; here in Lecco, holiday lights are already up over some of the main streets, though they have not yet been lit, and shopkeepers are busy decorating. At least Italian merchants aren’t quite as overeager as some others. In the US, some Christmas displays go up right after Halloween. When I was in England in early October, one department store (John Lewis) already had Christmas decorations up!

The run-up to Christmas is the only time when it’s almost as easy to shop in Italy as it is in the US. Stores, especially big ones, are open on Sundays starting next weekend; Sunday openings are a rarity at other times of year, though they are becoming more common with suburban “big box” stores. As we get closer to Christmas, shops will also stay open later, to around 10 pm.

Most small shops are owned by individuals or families, and I’ve always wondered when they get their holiday shopping done, since they are open seven days a week from late November through December 24th. They must be more organized than they expect us to be, and get it all done beforehand. In the last two or three weeks before Christmas, even food stores are open on Sundays. This would seem unnecessary, except for the last Sunday before Christmas when everyone is preparing for a feast. But there is a reason: one fine Italian Christmas tradition is gift baskets of food and wine, generally sent to professional acquaintances or employees, and sometimes to teachers. Enrico’s parents, both well-loved professors at the University of Rome, used to receive amazing baskets every year of fruit, nuts, wine, and Christmas sweets. I eagerly await the day when Enrico’s students take up this habit!

tell us about your winter travel experiences in Italy