On My Way to India, November 2002

Nov 11 – Milan Linate airport to Heathrow

Paranoid traveller that I am, I ordered a taxi for 6 am. This got me to Linate, Milan’s city airport, at 6:15 – for an 8 am flight. Check-in was soon accomplished, and I planned to relax and have breakfast in the British Airways business lounge (still exploiting the frequent flier mileage accumulated during those frantic last months with Roxio).

But the lounge is on the other side of security, and, as I discovered, the line to get through security on a Monday morning is appallingly long. So I had coffee at the airport bar, bought a book by Andrea Camilleri (“Il Corso delle Cose,” which I subsequently realized I’d already read; I enjoyed it again anyway). I killed time here and there, and finally, reluctantly, joined the very long queue at 6:58 – I had to walk to the other end of the airport to actually find the end of the line. I read as I shuffled along in line, finally passing security at 7:23. From there, straight onto my flight, which was already boarding.

The flight was relatively empty, so I had the row to myself. I sat on the aisle, and put my backpack under the middle seat. Just before takeoff, a flight attendant told me that my luggage had to be stowed underneath the seat in front of me during takeoff and landing, “due to CAA regulations.”

“I’m not trying to make trouble,” I said carefully, “But what difference does it make whether it’s under this seat or that seat?”

“It’s a regulation,” she repeated.

“What does the CAA care?” I asked (whoever they are).

“If they made a rule, they obviously care,” she snapped.

“It’s a stupid rule,” I said, and she did seem to agree with me.

Why is it that people insist on applying rules even when we all know they’re stupid?

 

Heathrow to Delhi

Getting several hundred people onto a plane efficiently and safely is no easy job, especially when most of them have excessive hand luggage, and some are elderly and/or inexperienced and/or speak no English.

The flight attendant in our section was amazing. She crisply but politely hurried everybody into their seats. She stood up on seats to rearrange luggage in the overhead lockers so that more could fit. She then lifted the luggage, some of it very heavy, and slotted it in there herself – all without turning a hair or laddering her stockings. She prodded, cajoled, and pleaded until almost everyone was seated, except for a middle-aged Sikh who had apparently checked in late, and therefore had not been assigned a seat next to his wife. In his determination to sit with her, he rudely ordered the man whose assigned seat that was to move. The flight attendant did not take kindly to this, and told him off sharply. A little later the Sikh gentleman did manage to switch seats with somebody, apparently by asking nicely.

The flight was uneventful, and I couldn’t concentrate on any of the 12 channels of movies. As often happens, conversation with my neighbors only began in the last hour or two. (Perhaps we’re all afraid to find each other boring, and then be stuck being polite through a long trip.) When we did get to talking, I found both of them interesting. One was a young woman of Indian descent, born and raised in London. She told me they call themselves BBCDs: British-Born Confused Deshis (deshi is a Hindi word meaning native, as opposed to videshi, foreigner).

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What Happens When You’re Not a Native of Anywhere?

I’ve been living in Italy so long that I seem to be losing what minimal ability I ever had to pass for a “real” American. My accent is becoming indefinable, or so I guess. Some Americans have told me that I sound vaguely British, and a few years ago in Dallas, someone asked me if I was a foreigner. I catch myself using a hybrid language, translating Italian idiom far too literally into English (and vice-versa).

I’ve become Italian in my sense of personal space. Italians have an extraordinary ability to block public thoroughfares, for example stopping to have a chat at the top of an escalator, or in the only patch of sidewalk that isn’t already blocked by parked cars. But at least they don’t take it amiss when you brush past them, as you often have to do. Life is lived smaller in Italy; we’re crowded together, so some physical overlap is to be expected and must be tolerated. I’m used to it. Other Americans evidently are not.

When my daughter and I set off for our US trip this summer, we had a stopover in Paris. I hate airports, so I try to get through them as quickly as possible. My tactics for doing so include taking stairs two at a time rather than standing behind people on the escalator, and zipping around and through crowds to get to whatever point comes next. I don’t cut lines, but I do try to be first to where the line is forming.

So Rossella and I were racing through the airport, when I heard an American woman I had just passed say sniffily: “Huh! This is just like being back in Italy.”

The same thing happened while we were waiting for a plane in Austin. We discovered we were supposed to be lined up over there rather than over here, but the path from here to there was blocked by a long line of people. I chose an opening that looked large enough (to me), and ducked through. The woman I had passed in front of glared as if I’d molested her.

My problem in dealing with my fellow Americans is that I look and sound American, but am not, quite. Culturally I’m a mishmash, a Third Culture Kid. I just don’t notice many of the American cultural cues, so I don’t respond the way Americans expect me to. They sense vaguely that something is wrong, but can’t quite put their fingers on what. Of course I miss cues in other cultures as well, but non-Americans make allowances for the obvious fact that I’m foreign; indeed, they would be surprised if I acted exactly as they do. (Americans usually extend the same courtesy to obvious foreigners in America.) For me, though, it’s different: in America I’m actually a foreigner, but camouflaged as a native, so I don’t have the privilege to screw up that someone clearly foreign would have.

Most of the time I don’t even realize that I’m doing something “wrong.” I eventually notice that I’ve rubbed people the wrong way, but I have no idea how that happened. Several Americans have told me, after knowing me for a while: “When I first met you, I thought you were a real bitch.”

Bormio: An Ancient Hot-Spring Spa in the Italian Alps

We took a family mini-vacation to Bormio again. This time we stayed at the hotel of the Bagni Vecchi (old baths), whose price includes unlimited admission to the spa, and breakfast and dinner.

above: View from the window of the hotel restaurant

Tourist information for Bormio

Our previous trip carved wooden building struts

carved wooden Ceiling decoration of a pharmacy built in 1555

^ Ceiling decoration of a pharmacy built in 1555

Bormio is a typically beautiful Alpine town, with ancient stone houses, their gray exteriors enlivened by bright flowers

^ Bormio is a typically beautiful Alpine town, with ancient stone houses, their gray exteriors enlivened by bright flowers

Tourist information for Bormio

Our previous trip

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