Deirdré Does Vegas: CES 2005

This trip gave me food for thought on many topics, so I’ll divide this account into subheadings.

Travel Reading

Milan’s Linate airport no longer has a newsstand once you pass security, so buy your reading material before you go through! There’s a big magazine/book store near the check-in counters.

I did have a book with me: I re-read Roger Zelazny’s “Lord of Light” after many years, and greatly enjoyed it. But I read fast, so it wasn’t long enough to get me through the 10-hour flight from Madrid to Chicago (especially when that turned into an 11-hour flight – all four Iberia Airlines flights I took on this trip were late)Airport bookstores tend to be disappointingly stocked – best-selling trash and not much else. “The Da Vinci Code,” which I had read at my dad’s house in a fit of boredom and curiosity to know what the fuss was about, is not great literature. It’s very poorly written and the plot is only minimally interesting; the “big revelation” was already familiar to me since my dad read “Holy Blood, Holy Grail” years ago and told me all about it. But “The Da Vinci Code” continues to sell, along with many derivative and imitative works, plus everything else Dan Brown has ever written. Which I will never bother to read – hell, even the jacket blurbs are poorly written!

debunking Dan Brown

I made sure to hit a Barnes & Noble bookstore before I left Las Vegas, so on the return trip I read Sharpe’s Rifles and Master and Commander – though I didn’t plan it that way, both are series about the British military during the Napoleonic Wars, one set on land and the other at sea. A further similarity: in both, the English hero’s best friend and staunchest supporter is Irish. Both are rich in detail about military structure, equipment, etc. And both are superbly written, though O’Brian’s “Master and Commander” has more humor, most of it sly and understated.

Security

Security was a different process in each of the four airports I passed through on this trip. In Milan, I had to place my feet (with my boots on) onto a new shoe-sniffing machine. In Chicago, I had to remove my laptop from my backpack and put it through the x-ray machine separately, which seemed pointless as they didn’t do anything particular to it.

Leaving Las Vegas, I was one of many randomly selected for the full treatment – separate line, remove boots, my laptop got swabbed and sniffed, and I got the full wand treatment, plus patting along the sides of my ribcage (by a female security person). I did not get the third-degree bra-grab that some American women have complained to the press about. FYI, a full-body pat-down for all passengers has been routine at Indian airports for as long as I can remember, carried out discreetly behind screens by same-sex security personnel. I guess it’s new to Americans, but has never been a big deal to me. I’d rather get felt up than blown up.

Fortunately, I am a paranoid traveler, and had allowed myself plenty of time at the airport, so the extra time in security wasn’t a problem. Some people who did not check in so early risked missing their flights.

Tsunami

Tsunami news in America, as everywhere else in the world, focuses on the local. Italian headlines concentrate on the handful of Italian dead (with several hundred still missing). Lecco’s papers, even more narrowly focused, were about the one Lecchese confirmed dead and three more missing.

Other countries’ news media are no different. These local obsessions usually get on my nerves, but an article by Italian journalist Beppe Severgnini, published in “Il Corriere della Sera” a couple of days after the tsunami, pointed out that bringing the global down to the local is the only way for some people to grasp it. I grudgingly admit that he’s got a point.

For myself, I hope that no news continues to be good news. One story I’ve heard so far through the Woodstock grapevine is that a Sri Lankan alum a few years younger than myself (I knew his older sisters) was vacationing on Sri Lanka’s east coast with his family. They were the only survivors at the hotel where they were staying, and took four days to find each other at various hospitals (though fortunately their injuries were only minor).

Media

You can learn a lot about a country from its advertising. One theme in the US is ads about products and services designed to let you work ALL THE TIME: “Turn your car’s passenger seat into an office.” “You can never afford to lose important data” – the photo shows a guy with a laptop beside a pool, beavering away while people around him are relaxing and having fun. No wonder so many Americans crave the laid-back (as they perceive it) Italian lifestyle.

Globalization

I didn’t get to see much of the Consumer Electronics Show that we went to Vegas for – most of that time we spent tucked away in a hotel suite with our hosts, Toshiba America Electronic Components, doing demos by appointment.

We did have a few hours here and there to hit the show floor, and had to wade through the crowd every time we arrived or departed from the hotel or (god help us) tried to get lunch or coffee. So I was able to observe other attendees, and what a study that was – globalization in action! The largest single group of attendees might still be white American men, but there were very large minorities of Japanese, Chinese, and Indians, who together outnumbered the white guys.

The group we were working with from Toshiba was a microcosm of this trend: the top bosses are Japanese, two senior marketing managers are Indian (both living in the US for many years), one engineer is a recent arrival from India, and one is Japanese. There were also two women, one Chinese-American and one Caucasian.

Personally, I cheer at this: I want to see India do well, and, now that the Indian entrepreneurial spirit is finally being unshackled from government regulation, it undoubtedly will do very well. Ethnic Chinese already run much of Asia’s economy, so it’s no surprise that China is moving into position to dominate the world economy, and not just because of its huge population. I was thinking about this from Day 1 of CES (January 6th), so I was wryly amused at this week’s fanfare over a National Intelligence Council report drawing similar conclusions. You don’t need to work for the CIA to see where the world economy is heading.

Standing in the extra-security line leaving Las Vegas airport, I fell into conversation with a young Indian man carrying a shoulder bag from the CES show. It turned out that he’s from Delhi, and runs an export business from India, China, and Thailand into the US and Europe. He had come to CES to see what new technologies might be helpful in his business. He asked what I had been doing there, and I told him about TVBLOB. “For example,” I said, “You can create your own custom TV channel, and broadcast it anywhere in the world.” He got it instantly: “I could create a channel for my subscribers, and show them new goods they’d be interested in!”

Alienated

I’m beginning to wonder where in the globe I’m “from” nowadays. Most Americans I spoke to assumed I was foreign, at least during the first few days of the convention. Apparently my accent has become mid-Atlantic, and to Americans I sound British. I pick up accents quickly, however, so I suppose I was sounding more American by the end of the show, although much of my conversation was in Italian, with my Italian and Bulgarian colleagues.

Customer Service, Good and Bad

Kudos to Macy’s: When the lady at the cash register realized we were foreign (at least, one of us was), she told us we were entitled to a discount with an “International Savings Card”. To get it, all we had to do was go to the gift wrap window and show proof of overseas residence; the card gives an 11% discount on just about everything at Macy’s.

Big thumbs down for FedEx: They screwed up the outgoing shipment of our box of demo equipment because the people in Milan didn’t know what forms were needed, so it got hung up in Memphis and barely arrived in time to be useful. To send it back, I went down to the Hilton Business Center. The young lady there tried for quite a while to get her FedEx software to accept the shipment with appropriate insurance, but something was wrong, and she needed tech support for the software. This was on a Sunday, the day the CES show ended, and we then discovered that FedEx’s tech support office is not open on Sundays. Which is absurd for an international shipping company. So I shipped it UPS, which cost 50% more, but the box departed Las Vegas and arrived in Milan without further hassles.

Las Vegas

I’d never been to Las Vegas before. It’s not the sort of place I would have chosen for a vacation, and I will never go there again unless I have to – once is quite enough.

For a hyper-attentioned person like myself, Las Vegas is exhausting, especially inside the casinos. The casino floors are a wilderness of slot machines, thousands of them, with flashing lights, animated displays, moving numbers, and sound. They come in an infinite variety, with themes from TV shows, video games, movies, even the game Monopoly. Gambling (or “gaming,” as it is euphemistically called) is forbidden to minors, so you have to be at least 18 to get near these machines, and in fact most of the bettors are far older, which makes the childishness of the decor frankly bizarre. Is gambling supposed to be related to childhood in some way? Are the manufacturers mixing metaphors of childish and adult “play”?

Perhaps I shouldn’t be so hung up on dignity; everything about Las Vegas proclaims it a Disneyland for grownups. The glamour is all fake: cheap rhinestones and “crystal” chandeliers, gleaming brass, colorful carpets. Most of the shows are meant to be sexually titillating (even some for women – at least we have equality), but bare breasts and simulated sex are as far as they go, at least in this part of town. The only show I got to see was the free one outside the Treasure Island casino, presumably toned down for a general audience. It was one of the stupidest things I’ve ever seen.

I did buy a new (cheap) video camera, so was able to get some fun footage.

Waiting for News

One of the joys of having attended Woodstock School is that I know people all over the world. Which is also one of the sorrows: when something bad happens almost anywhere in the world, it’s likely to affect someone of my extended Woodstock family.

wrote almost two years ago about an Indian schoolmate who survived both Gulf Wars in Baghdad, with her Iraqi husband. In April of 2004, Shahnaz died of a galloping cancer. Had Iraq not been under embargo for so many years, effectively shutting down medical facilities for ordinary people, she would have had access to decent medical care, and perhaps her cancer could have been diagnosed and treated in time. As it is, she is one of tens of thousands of innocent victims. The difference is that, to me, she is no abstract figure. She’s Shahnaz, and she’s gone.

And now the tsunami. As class secretary, I have sent out email to all my classmates, and am waiting for news from the larger alumni family as well. But it’s too early to know for sure whether we’re all okay; the nosecount could take a long time. So far the classmates who have checked in are all right, though one was awaiting news of her father’s family in Madras.

Why Italians Have Stopped Eating Out

Like most people in Italy, we don’t go out for dinner as much as we used to. We love to eat out, and there are many great restaurants in Italy, but who can afford them anymore?

It started with the euro. The official conversion rate was 1936.27 lire to the euro. In other words, a pizza that used to cost 8,000 lire, if converted correctly, should cost slightly over 4 euros. In practice, many restaurants just lopped off three zeros, so a pizza that used to cost 8,000 lire now costs 8 euros. It almost seems reasonable at first glance, til you realize that you are now paying almost 16,000 lire for a pizza, which no one would have dreamed of doing pre-euro.

In Milan a few weeks ago, we ate at a restaurant that we had frequented for years, and considered good quality at a medium price. This assessment proved to be sadly out of date. Between the three of us, we had three primi (first courses), two secondi (second courses), one dessert, four ¾ litre bottles of water, ½ litre of wine, and one coffee. The primi (first courses) were good, the secondi decidedly less so: Enrico’s bollito misto (boiled meats) was unimpressive – I can buy better mostarda myself! – and my agnello al scottadito (grilled lamb ribs) seemed almost fried rather than grilled, certainly not tender as they should be. And the bill was 98 euros! Definitely not worth the price.

We saw only two or three other tables of patrons while we were there, and the chef spent most of the evening standing around in the hall. Not a good sign, but no more than he deserved for charging us an arm and a leg for a sub-par meal. Until recently, some restaurants might have imagined they could rely on the less-discerning palates of tourists, but, with the dollar in free-fall, many Americans can no longer afford to come to Italy at all, or at least need to eat more cheaply while they’re here. Italian restaurateurs need to rethink their pricing and quality before they go out of business in droves.

Italy’s Smoking Wars

On January 10th, a much-delayed law banning smoking in public places goes into effect in Italy. It requires public spaces (restaurants, clubs, discos, offices, bingo parlors…) to either wall off smokers in separate rooms, or to ensure adequate ventilation (a high volume of air exchange with a filtration system), or to forbid smoking altogether. Individuals caught breaking the ban would be fined, and restaurant etc. owners are expected to “play sheriff,” risking fines from 220 to 2200 euros if they do not.

The January 10th date already represents a compromise to allow owners to get through the holiday season (which ends with the Epiphany on January 6th), but many are gearing up to do battle against various aspects of the law, especially that requiring them to rat on their clients.

Some observers assume that this law, like so many others, will be routinely flouted in Italy. From what I’ve seen so far, I think that will depend on the attitude of individual owners. Those who are militant smokers themselves and/or cherish their smoking clientele will get away with as much as they can, while others, as I have observed before, have already banned smoking from their premises, and seem happy to have done so. They may already be discovering that, while they may lose a few clients among the fumatori accaniti (dedicated smokers), they make at least compensating gains among the non-smokers.

Smokers feel besieged the world over, as evidenced by the howls of outrage every time another country or city banishes them to the sidewalks. Having been a besieged non-smoker all my life, I feel no sympathy. For some of us - sinus and bronchitis sufferers like myself or, worse, asthmatics – any amount of smoke is a threat to health and even life. We have been effectively banned from many places and events by smoke. I greatly enjoyed an evening country dancing country-western with my DC roommate at a local club years ago, but had to leave because I was choking.

I likewise enjoyed the music and ambience at one of Milan’s jazz clubs, but have never returned since my first smoky night there years ago. Maybe now I can.

So, smokers, don’t begrudge us smoke-sufferers the opportunity to join in the fun. You always have the choice to step outside for a smoke; stepping outside to breathe isn’t much of an option for us.

Further discussion

The “Real” Italy

^ Of course, some people in Italy actually do sing opera for fun (and/or for a living).

To bring people to my site, I hang out in online forums about traveling and living in Italy, answering questions where I usefully can. It’s been an education for me as well, in American attitudes towards Italy.

One young woman bemoaned the fact that in her travels in Italy, and especially in Rome, she had not found the “real” Italy that she expected. Her vision of the real Italy apparently included (only) beautiful people beautifully dressed, spotless streets, and women who make pasta from scratch every day while singing along to Verdi and Puccini. She was sadly bewildered to find Rome full of immigrants (“Bulgarians and Chinamen,” as she phrased it), rude people, and young people kissing on park benches (she was of the opinion that this sort of behavior should be heavily fined – really, what planet was she from?).

Come to any country looking for a stereotype, and you’re bound to be disappointed, especially when your picture is based on the rose-colored memories of emigrant grandparents, or the more recent “live the good life in Italy” stereotype created by well-heeled foreigners who move to Tuscany, renovate a villa, and then write a book about it.

A recent post on Zoomata.com bewailed the removal of crucifixes from Italian classrooms (due to a court challenge by the Finnish mother of an Italian child); another on Fodors.com was upset over a bit of news reported in the US, that in Treviso a school’s nativity play was replaced with “Little Red Riding Hood.” Said the Fodor’s poster: “I love Italy. I thought I knew Italians, being American Italian myself.”

These two people, a Canadian and an American, both mourn Italy’s “becoming” secular rather than remaining Catholic. As second- or third-generation emigrants, they have skipped over several generations of Italian history, and apparently don’t realize that the separation of church and state in Italy was established in the Constitution (strongly modeled on the American one) in the early 1950s.

The Catholic Church still has influence in Italian life and politics, but that influence is waning (though not going down without a fight, I admit). The Church’s presence in daily life is nearly non-existent. Most Italians are still baptized etc. and would claim to be Catholic if you asked, but only about 10% (I’m guessing) are practicing Catholics.

There are still devout Catholics of course, but even they are puzzled by the attitudes of their non-practicing compatriots. One of my colleagues who is very active in his diocese told me: “These people show up wanting to marry in the church or baptize their kids. We’ve never seen them before and it means nothing to them, so we have to wonder why they bother.” If forced to think about it, these people might answer that it’s traditional, and/or that they want to please an older relative.

Italy still maintains many of the outward forms of Catholicism, but even those are being challenged, as in the above-mentioned cases of the classroom crucifixes and nativity play. Like most modern nations, Italy is wrestling with large-scale immigration and how to integrate new people, religions, and cultures into the existing culture and society. These are not easy issues, and the best answers differ even from community to community within a country. Some parts of Italy have found effective and interesting ways to bring their newly-multicultural communities together, others are still working on it. In most cases, the result will not look like the Italy that many Americans think they know.

Deirdré Straughan on Italy, India, the Internet, the world, and now Australia