La Scala Re-Opening

I haven’t been following the Muti-La Scala fight closely, but I do have a bit of inside information. The New York Times said:

“MR. MUTI had reason for optimism. He had just presided over what was widely proclaimed the cultural event of the year in Europe on Dec. 7, the reopening of La Scala after a three-year restoration and renovation. The project had encountered protests from preservationists and the usual construction delays, but the finished house was widely regarded as a masterpiece, with its new stage contraptions functioning smoothly and its venerable décor glistening afresh.”

Uh, yeah, right. The finished house was not finished. The glistening decor had been hastily cleaned of construction dust, dangling wires tucked away, etc., for the big opening-night performance. Stagehands nearly lost limbs operating the new and unfamiliar stage contraptions, but, from the audience’s point of view, everything did run smoothly.

Performances then moved right back to the Teatro degli Arcimboldi, where they have been held since the La Scala restoration began, and will continue to be held until it is truly finished. The grand opening night marking its completion was, appropriately enough, a messinscena (mise en scéne).

Gardening: In Italy, a Man’s Home is His Orto

^ Fresh produce from our garden. The zucchine aren’t supposed to be that shape; they had long skinny ends which I cut off because they were rotting; the uneven growth might be due to uneven watering (we’re still learning). I also need to learn to look more closely at the tomatoes before I cut them. But it makes a visually interesting assortment.

Our new home has a bit of land around it, so, for the first time in 30 years, I can plant in something bigger than a windowbox. There’s a lot to do to turn this mess into a garden, however – the previous owners neglected it terribly. For starters, since we moved here I’ve grubbed up several hundred kilos of dandelions and other weeds from the lawn. (I don’t mind. I find weeding therapeutic during times of frustration, such as phone calls to Telecom Italia.)

I planted bulbs back in October, in the bare patches left after the dandelions were removed, so we have cheerful clumps of daffodils, with hyacinths, tulips, and irises coming along later. My weeding activities have given the lawn a mangy look, but I’m reseeding it with grass and wildflowers.

Measured horizontally, our backyard would be about 10 by 12 meters. But we’re on a slope – in its natural state, this land would be almost vertical, so when the house was built, the land got terraced. There’s a piece of flat yard extending about four meters from the door of our basement-level den out towards the lake, then there’s a six-meter drop. The mass of earth (building rubble and very clayey soil) is kept in place by a stack of open cinder blocks, mostly filled with rocks and weeds (yes, my fellow Woodstockers, we have our very own khud!). There’s another three-meter terrace of flat land below, then it drops three meters (more cinder blocks) to a tiny strip (1/2 meter) of dirt abutting the neighbors’ fence. All this is traversed by a narrow staircase of more cinder blocks.

What to do with this peculiar arrangement? The top level we’ll mostly keep clear, in hopes of eventually having a lawn worth enjoying. And lawn chairs – it gets lots of sun. We’ve planted ten rose bushes along the low fence that stops people falling down to the terrace below, and yesterday I put up a low enclosure for the turtles. (Predictably, they spent most of the time trying to get out of it.) After I decide exactly where I want that to be permanently placed, we’ll put in a little pond so that they can stay out there full-time when the weather’s warm enough.

The terrace below is in the process of becoming a vegetable garden (orto). For this, I have help. We had scarcely moved into the new house last September when Mimma (the wonderful Sicilian lady who cleans and irons for us) brought her husband Domenico to have a look. Retired from factory work, Domenico is a keen gardener, maintaining their own orto somewhere near Lecco, as well as gardening for several other people.

Domenico is a very practical man: his first suggestion was to plow up everything, including the top level, and make it all into orto. I resisted this – I want a place to lounge in the sun, when I have time for such things. (And can stop myself leaping up to dig, plant, or weed.) We do have a patch of herbs in the corner by the garage, and I’ve planted green beans on the other side of the fence where the roses are (there’s just enough space between fence and drop for me to walk along). This may be unorthodox, but legumes fix nitrogens in the soil (so I’ve read), so they should be good for the roses, and of course they can climb the fence.

green bug on purple iris

Down below, I’ve already planted various salad greens, with parsely, basil, and coriander in alternate rows. I am reading up on organic gardening, trying to find natural preventatives and remedies – it seems silly to go to all the trouble of planting our own veggies, and then have to spray them with nasty chemicals and wonder what we’re eating. So far I’ve read that garlic and other “smelly” plants help discourage bugs; I’ve planted garlic around the roses. I’m growing marigolds from seeds and will transplant them out to the orto when they’re bigger, as they, too, are said to have a bug-scaring smell. And nasturtiums, which not only smell bad to bugs, but can be eaten by humans (both flowers and leaves, in salads).

In a few weeks, when the weather is truly warm, we’ll buy vegetable plants – eggplant, tomatoes, zucchine, cucumbers, peppers – which Domenico will come plant for me. Yesterday he brought some sapling trees from his own orto (two figs, four hazelnuts) which he planted along the bottom of the first retaining wall; when they get bigger, they may help prevent a landslide. This whole hillside used to be a hazelnut orchard, and the neighbors still have some very nice trees, but our property was completely deforested by someone stupid, and is therefore prone to slippage.

The rows of cinder blocks are offset from each other and stick out just enough to make little planters, so I’m slowly filling them up with odds and ends: two miniature carnation plants, small succulents that will expand to fill their spaces, and wild strawberries. The property is full of strawberry plants, but they have a tendency to grow where they will get stepped on, so I’m transplanting them to the cinder blocks, which should make perfect strawberry planters.

…and I could go on all day, obviously. I’d forgotten how much I love gardening, it’s been so long since I had a real opportunity to do it. I like watching things grow. And having an orto is very much an Italian tradition – anyone who has a patch of land, no matter how small, plants things that they can eat. Part of eating good food is having it fresh, and it doesn’t get any fresher than right out of your own garden. I’m looking forward to putting own on produce on our dining table this summer!

May 11, 2005

I should have been grateful for the unusually long winter. Now spring has set in with a vengeance, and with it, allergies. We had a beautiful weekend, and I would have loved to be out gardening, but I was stuck in my room with my clean-air machine, taking allergy pills and eyedrops (probably more of both than I should), and nonetheless in sneezing, eye-burning misery. Oh, well. At least I have a nice view of all the burgeoning greenery from my window…

Down Memory Lane in a Corporate T-Shirt

One of the perks of working in high tech during the boom years was that you could wear jeans and polo shirts to the office every day, and you didn’t even have to pay for the shirts – someone was always giving you clothing.

If you represented your company at a show or conference, they wanted you “in uniform,” so they gave you a new shirt. My first was the infamous Adaptec polo shirt, purple with a turquoise placket and navy collar. I still have it, but don’t wear it much, because, like most of the shirts Adaptec gave me, it was too big.

Another polo shirt I received was embroidered to commemorate a project I hadn’t known I was participating in, something to do with an upgrade of the Adaptec network. As far as I was concerned, I had been helping out my buddies in IT by playing around with cool new stuff, so I was surprised to get a shirt about it. They swore they had even asked me what size I wanted (if they had, I would have asked for a small).

I was informally part of Adaptec’s web team, so I got a fleece jacket to commemorate the relaunch of the company website, in fall 1997 according to the embroidery. The jackets were commissioned prematurely, however – as I recall, the site didn’t actually go live til about six months later.

Let’s see, what else is in the closet? Another fleece, this one from a conference we hosted for our European distributors in Marbella. Nicer quality of fleece, but no pockets! A long-sleeved polo shirt from something else, too big as usual, and in a horrid shade of green.

Various baseball caps, pity I don’t wear them very often. My favorite is one that an IT buddy was given by UUNet, which he graciously passed on to me – if I’m going to wear a baseball cap at all, I want it to be as geeky as possible. The best-looking cap I have is naturally from ATG – Art Technology Group, a company that prided itself on its fine design sense (one of my Woodstock classmates was its CEO at the time).

I have t-shirts from various companies, but I never wore them in the office, nor much on the street in Italy. On one of our Caribbean vacations, a company logo t-shirt I happened to be wearing actually accomplished its advertising purpose. We went horseback riding on the beach. After an hour riding behind me and looking at my Toast + Jam t-shirt, a guy in the group with us asked me what it was about. I explained, and he said “Oh, I could use that.” Turns out he was a musician, and liked the idea of being able to create his own CDs of his work.

I get more wear out of the long-sleeved Ts, from Hewlett-Packard (wore that one out, in fact) and Roxio, and a nice black turtleneck from Roxio Germany commemorating WinOnCD 6 (for which I wrote the manual). Thanks to friends, I still enjoy some of my old industry perks: I recently received three black turtlenecks embroidered with “Roxio – a division of Sonic Solutions”. Come to think of it, my collection of shirts spans most of the history of the CD recording software industry.

My all-time favorite remains the denim shirt pictured here. It’s a little big, but just comfortably so, enough to wear over a long-sleeve knit shirt in spring. The embroidery was designed by a tattoo artist: a burning heart with “Born 2 Burn” inscribed on a banner wrapped around it. A couple of years later, after several changes of the guard at Adaptec/Roxio, I was wearing it the day I met our new CEO, Chris Gorog. He commented on the shirt, and I passed along the observation that one of the engineers had made about the tattoo design: “If you turn it upside down, it looks like a flaming asshole.” Which probably sealed my doom with Mr. Gorog. Oh, well. Perhaps he and I were never destined to get along in the first place.

Win Some, Lose Some

Since my whine about our iPod troubles , I’ve received several offers to help solve the problems, as well as several other stories of customer dissatisfaction with the iPod. So I should follow up.

Rossella’s friend who also has an iPod was able to load new tracks onto hers, which told me that the iPod itself was okay, and sending it back to Apple would be useless. The problem is evidently between my computer and the iPod, although that doesn’t explain why the Mac I borrowed couldn’t see the iPod, either. To charge Ross’ iPod, we continued plugging it into the FireWire cable attached to my Windows PC, so I was happily surprised when, on its return from the friend, the iPod was again recognized by Windows. Maybe it suddenly realized it was supposed to accept new songs as well as play old ones. I hastened to load it up with music before it changed its mind. Since then, the connection between the iPod and my computer has been erratic, but generally available.

The new problem is that the battery doesn’t last long. I’ve been over to the Apple support site for advice, and it looks as if I’ll have to do some testing to determine to Apple’s satisfaction that there really is a problem before I try to send it in for warranty repair. A friend is seeing short battery life with her own much newer iPod, too. I do note on the site that Apple has halved the scandalous price they were charging to replace out-of-warranty batteries, to “only” $99 plus shipping. But there are ways to do it more cheaply, and, once it’s out of warranty, you might as well.

later: iPod battery problem solved!

Italian Freedom Fighters: Cultural Attitudes Towards the Law

The debate about Italy’s new anti-smoking laws sputters on in some online forums. One chap had this to say on Zoomata:

“The reason Italians are upset is because we do not like to be told what to do. In fact, this law will be very difficult to enforce in the South, especially in the Naples area. Some have said that it will actually encourage people to smoke. To narrow minded Americans this may be difficult to understand. But, in Italy, Italians feel that they should have the freedom to decide. That is why many laws are so often disregarded in Italy. Italians are probably the world’s greatest free thinkers and lovers of freedom. Any law which forbids is viewed as an infrigment upon their rights.”

I managed to post a fairly polite reply, but this guy got my blood boiling. One of the traits I like least in Italian culture is this “every man for himself” attitude. An Italian’s loyalty is first to self, then to family, then to paese, and almost none to country. (NB: I’m not crazy about American-style “my country right or wrong” patriotism, either.)

In Italy, laws are often disregarded, not because they are felt to be wrong for the community, but because they are inconvenient for the individual: “Why should I obey the speed limit? I’m in a hurry.” This is a declaration, not of independence, but of sheer self-centeredness. Lowering and enforcement of speed limits have reduced overall highway fatalities in Italy, but every individual Italian asserts his right to drive as fast as he can get away with.

Probably for historical reasons, Italians have little sense of themselves as a unified country and culture, and almost no sense of shared “ownership” of a community and its resources. People deposit trash along country roads because it’s easier than going to the dump, never thinking that they are polluting the environment and ruining the beauty of the landscape. As long as it’s not their own front yard and they don’t have to look at it, they don’t care.

So some Italian smokers continue to assert their right to pollute my breathing space, and moan that the new law shows a worrying trend towards American-style attempts to tell everybody how to live. I agree that it’s possible to push any law too far, but, so far, these folks get no sympathy from me. When I used to whine about my troubles with smoke, I got no sympathy from most of them.

In any case, Italy’s anti-smoking law seems, to the surprise of many, to be sticking. Ross recently went to a disco, and told me that the smokers all had to go out on the terrace, even though it was a cold winter night. Unfortunately, there were so many of them that, when the disco got crowded and hot, stepping out for a breath of fresh air was counter-productive: she stepped out into clouds of smoke.

Deirdré Straughan on Italy, India, the Internet, the world, and now Australia