Category Archives: Italian culture

How to Get (Slightly) Better Customer Service

David Pogue of the New York Times has written a series of articles on “Customer Service Cluelessness,” in which he postulates that the incorrect billing many of us suffer from various companies is actually a money-making stratagem: most of us won’t notice small discrepancies on our bills, or won’t spend the time to communicate with the companies to get them fixed, so the companies get to keep the bulk of their ill-gotten gains.

As I mentioned before, Tiscali, my former ADSL provider, tried to stick me for € 570 back in July, after I had left their service. But that was only the end (I hope) in the Tiscali saga.

That began two years previously, when I was first trying to get ADSL up and running in Milan. I applied online in April, had some paperwork problems, and didn’t actually receive the modem until June. Then there were problems with the line, which would have to be fixed by Telecom Italia, and Tiscali told me that could take weeks – by which time I expected to be out of the country. I told them: “Call me as soon as it’s fixed;” the only other way for me to know it was working would have been to test it myself every day.

I didn’t hear anything. I returned to Milan on September 10th, 2001, and called tech support again the next day.

“Oh, that was fixed back on July 11th,” he said, “Why don’t you try it now?”

I tried to go to to CNN, but couldn’t get through. “Still not working,” I said.

“Try our site,” he said.

I did. It had a news feed. And that was how I found out about the Twin Towers. “Something very bad is happening,” I said, and hung up on him.

The good news was that the line was in fact working. However, when the bill arrived, they had billed me back to July, wanting me to pay for two months in which I had not been using it, because I didn’t know it was working.

I called customer service. “We got it working in July,” they said, “so we began billing in July.”

“I was home and could have used it til August,” I replied, “but you were supposed to TELL me it was working, and you didn’t.”

“The technician tried to call.”

“He must not have tried very hard. We have an answering machine. Or why didn’t he send email?” No satisfactory answer was forthcoming.

I decided to make a formal complaint. The customer service rep said I should write all the details in an email and send it to an anonymous customer service address.

“Fine,” I said. “I’ll copy it to your president. What’s his name?”

“That’s not necessary,” said the lady stiffly. And she refused to tell me the name. I was surfing the net while on the phone with her. A few clicks later, I found Tiscali’s corporate site.

“Ah, here he is: Renato Soru. Okay, let’s try renato.soru@tiscali.com…”

She went into a panic. “He’ll never read it!” she said.

I wrote a long message with all the details, being careful to give praise where that was due (“The customer service rep was very polite, even when I was screaming at her.”) and to explain what went wrong and where, and what kind of restitution I was expecting.

Renato Soru did read it, or at least his secretary did, and she replied politely that Dr. Soru thanked me for letting him know how things were going in customer service. She claimed that I would still have to pay for those two months, but in fact I was never billed for them, either through oversight or because someone realized that I shouldn’t be.

Writing to the big boss is an old trick in the US, but it seems that Italians are not used to it. It will still get results even in many US companies, if nothing else to get you off upper management’s back. Of course the email address of the president/CEO is not going to be posted on the website, but it’s usually pretty easy to guess: try variations on firstname.lastname@companyname.com, firstinitiallastname@, etc.; something is bound to work. webmaster@companyname.com may never answer you, but the president might.

Now we’re having a big hassle with Telecom about overbilling (to the tune of 500 euros). It’s time to write another letter…

Bridging the Holidays: Extra-Long Weekends in Italy

Last weekend was the real start of the holiday season for Italians, even though shops and towns started decorating a few weeks ago. The Feast of the Immaculate Conception [of the Virgin Mary], a national holiday, falls on December 8th.

These days, the holiday is mostly enjoyed as a long weekend and the start of the ski season, when families can get away to the mountains because the kids are off school. Shops are open, even on Sunday, because this is also the start of the Christmas shopping season, as Thanksgiving is for Americans.

The Milanese often get an extra-long holiday: December 7th is the day of Milan’s patron saint, Ambrose. Every city and town in Italy has a patron, and therefore a holiday on the saint’s day. This year the Milanese lose out: December 7th was a Sunday, and Milanese schoolkids were in school on Saturday.

So why were the Lecchesi off school Saturday? December 6th is the feast of San Nicolo’, Lecco’s patron – this must be the same Saint Nicholas who puts gifts in the shoes of good little children in Germany on this date (hence the legend of Santa Claus). I had thought San Nicolo’s day was in late June, when we had fireworks and the blessing of the lake, but I now know that that was simply a “Feast of the Lake,” with a rite performed in Nicolo’s name.

When I was a kid, Americans celebrated George Washington’s birthday and Abraham Lincoln’s birthday on their respective actual dates, both in February. Nowadays this has been slimmed down to a generic “Presidents’ Day,” always celebrated on a Monday, though most states now also give a holiday for Martin Luther King.

The Italians have not succumbed to the American habit of making holidays “efficient.” Americans set these floating holidays on a Monday or a Friday so as to assure themselves a three-day weekend. The Italians simply take il ponte (the bridge): if a holiday falls on anything other than Monday or Friday, many people will simply take off the extra day(s) in between, creating a long weekend. Schools have long since bowed to the inevitable, and made all the bridges official school holidays. Some schools even have a week-long holiday in February, in hopes that everyone will go off for their settimana bianca (“white week” – ski holiday) at the same time, minimizing the disruption to teaching.

The Lecchesi have beaten the Milanese at holiday bridges. If December 6th and December 8th are holidays, there is no way anyone’s going to school on the 7th, no matter what day of the week it is.

Catholic Dogma

Dec 17, 2003

I have a lot of Catholics subscribers, it turns out (including one who, as I already knew, is an Augustinian monk and priest), so my confusion over the Immaculate Conception has been cleared up.

“The Feast of the Immaculate Conception celebrates the conception of Mary herself, not that of Jesus. According to Catholic dogma, Mary is the only human to have ever been conceived without original sin. Supposedly this was a pre-requisite for Jesus’ birth, and was foretold by the prophets.

As Catholic dogma goes, this element has been argued back and forth through time, and was only made a permanent fixture in 1854.

You can find a (relatively) brief summary of the history of the IC’s observance here.

A longer discussion, with Biblical evidence for it is here.”

John Francini

American Holidays

Dec 17, 2003

Julie, our correspondent in Austin, responded: “You might be interested to know that Confederate Heroes Day combines the birthdays of Robert E. Lee (Jan. 19) and Jefferson Davis (June 3).” And you’ll notice that it falls very close to (or on) Martin Luther King Day. I’ve heard that some state agencies give their employees the option to take one holiday or the other… but that may just be a rumor.”

Scheduling Holidays

Aug 25, 2004

Prime Minister Berlusconi a few months ago proposed to increase Italian productivity by canceling some holidays, and rescheduling others to fall on Fridays or Mondays and do away with the costly ponte. Predictably, there was screaming and jeering from all fronts.

If you check the helpful US consulate calendar, you’ll see why: most of the holidays are religious ones of long standing. Probably the Pope would scream at any attempt to change them in the name of mere economics, and most Italians would defend them in the name of tradition, even though they aren’t very practicing Catholics.

The Communists (yes, we still have them) would scream if Labor Day were touched – after all, it’s meant to be a day off to celebrate the workers. That leaves the days which commemorate historical events: Liberation Day (liberation from the Nazis and defeat of the Fascists, April 25, 1945), and Republic Day (June 2, 1946, when Italy voted to be a republic instead of a monarchy). The latter has been created (or reinstated) fairly recently by President Carlo Azeglio Ciampi, in a quixotic effort to foster a sense of nationalism and patriotism among Italians – he’s also behind the recent proliferation of the Italian tricolore flag.

Berlusca would also like to reduce the number of vacation days granted to Italian employees. Yeah, right, good luck with that… He himself needs all the holiday time he can get, for cosmetic surgery! I’m not kidding – he had a facelift last Christmas, and a hair transplant just now.

Aug 30, 2004

Aldo tells me: “This has already been tried some 20 years ago.They removed some religious feasts from the calendar, including January 6 (the Epiphany) and June 29 (the feast of St. Peter and St. Paul). Some years later they were forced by popular demand to reinstate Jan. 6th as a holiday. Too bad June 29th was not reinstated – it’s my birthday, and it was fun to have a 100% sure day off for that!”

American Stars in Italian Advertising

It’s not common to see big-name American stars in TV ads in the US, but they’re quite willing to do such ads overseas. Here in Italy I’ve seen Harrison Ford in an ad for a French car brand. Andie McDowell has for years advertised an expensive brand of shoes, and more recently cosmetics, for which she appears in TV commercials apparently speaking perfect Italian with no trace of an accent. Leonardo diCaprio has appeared in an ad for Apple Computers. Both Naomi Campbell and George Clooney have appeared in Martini ads; at least both of them actually do spend time in Italy. (In case you’re wondering, Clooney’s villa is on the posh side of Lake Como, near the city of Como – nowhere near us. If I ever run into him, I’ll let you know.)

The Clooney ad is one in a series on the theme “No Martini, no party,” and is cute enough to warrant a description: George rings a doorbell. The door opens, he’s greeted by several attractive young women, and a party is clearly going on inside. “Hello, George,” they say enthusiastically. Then they see that he’s empty-handed, and slam the door in his face, saying: “No Martini, no party.” George realizes his mistake, and returns with a case of Martini. This time the girls greet him warmly, take the box, and slam the door in his face again.

Gwyneth Paltrow has also appeared in Martini ads, which raised some comment as she has stated publicly that she doesn’t drink alcohol.

Italian vs. American Diet

^ ravioli at Lanterna Verde – yum!

One of the most boring things in the world is listening to people talk about their diet (hearing them complain about their weight runs a close second). However, in America today there’s nothing to discuss, because everyone is on the Atkins diet (no carbohydrates, but you can eat as much of anything else as you want).

Food companies and advertisers have been swift to adapt. In the supermarket I saw “low-carbohydrate bread.” I did not read the label to learn how they accomplished this miracle; I had a feeling it would involve chemicals I’d never want to put into my body.

Magazine articles, books, and news items give alarming statistics about obesity, and offer ways to combat it, both in yourself and your children. It seems to me that maintaining a healthy weight is not rocket science, and doesn’t require a diet plan that you have to buy a whole book about, let alone pre-packaged diet meals with counted calories etc. etc. Didn’t we all learn the basics of nutrition in school, the four major food groups and all that? The major lesson I remember is that it never hurts to eat more fruit and vegetables, especially when those replace starches, fats, and sugars in your daily intake.

Perhaps what Americans really need is to revise their attitude towards food. Food seems to occupy two diametrically-opposed places in American consciousness. On the one hand, food is simply fuel – you shovel in whatever comes to hand, to keep you going. It’s this attitude that leads to families rarely eating together, as everyone is rushing off to their extra-curricular activities, grabbing whatever they can to eat along the way.

But food also has a psychological role. Cookbooks, menus, and people tout the concept of “comfort food,” which, when eaten, is supposed to make you feel secure or loved, perhaps by reminding you of your childhood. (Never mind that most of us never had this mythical comforting childhood or that kind of food with it.)

Comfort is a very dangerous role for food to play. You hear the same story over and over again: “I wasn’t overweight, but then I went through a rough patch and felt depressed. I turned to food for comfort, and became a blimp.” At the blimp stage, food is re-cast as the enemy, the secret sin, and the indulgent reward for good behavior (most often, diet-related good behavior: “I was good today, I only had salad for lunch, so I’m entitled to have a brownie now”).

The attitude towards food is one area where Italy really gets it right. This attitude is made explicit by the Slow Food movement, but I think is pervasive throughout Italian culture. In Italy, a meal is neither mere refueling nor comforting self-indulgence. It’s a time for a family to be together, to enjoy good food and each others’ company. It’s not something to be rushed through, neither in preparation nor in consumption. So dinner is eaten far later than in the US, usually around 8 pm. Meals are spread over at least two courses, which also slows you down. You have time to appreciate the food and wine, and to talk to each other. And there’s no rushing through the meal to watch TV afterwards. (I have never heard an Italian, not even a child, leave the table on that pretext.)

The Italian style of family meal has several beneficial side effects. On the nutritional side, everyone tends to eat a more balanced diet, in part because parents are at the table with their kids to ensure that they eat what’s good for them. Taking your time over a meal also ensures that you digest it better. And spending time together is good for families: you know what’s going on with each other.

Needless to say, the Atkins diet is not taking off in Italy, the home of pasta, risotto, polenta, and tasty, crusty bread. Thank god.

Winter Holidays: A Good Time to Visit Italy

While many people dream of Italy, it seems that most can’t picture it outside the summer season. I’ve seen messages on the Lonely Planet boards asking: “Is it worthwhile to even go to Italy in winter?”

Well, yes, it is, especially around the Christmas season. As elsewhere in the Christian world, this is Italy’s biggest holiday. In the days before Christmas, shops will be open late at night, decorated in gold and silver, red and white, with lights everywhere, and the sidewalks are literally red-carpeted. There are concerts and events, street fairs and markets, and everyone is cheerful, perhaps because for once we’re all thinking about other people (i.e., what to get them for presents).

You probably don’t want to be on the road, though. Extended families travel to be together for the holiday. It’s rare for anyone to go elsewhere on vacation at Christmas; the proverb says: “Natale con i tuoi, Pasqua dove vuoi.” (“Christmas with your parents, Easter where you like.”) Millions of people travel by car (all those presents to carry!), so holiday highway traffic in Italy is horrible in the days just before Christmas and for the re-entry around the Epiphany.
Cartier - Milan
Shops are open until late on Christmas Eve, then everything shuts down for Christmas day. Except bars – you can always get coffee in Italy. Shops are also all closed on December 26th, the festa di Santo Stefano, but restaurants and at least some tourist sites are open, because that’s the day when families traditionally go on a gita (a daytrip) together. The weather usually cooperates, too. Again, lots of traffic.

From the 27th to the 31st, most shops run normal schedules. Shop windows of all kinds are suddenly full of red underwear, because wearing red underwear on New Year’s eve brings good luck for the new year. Plebeian cotton or sexy silk: doesn’t matter, as long as it’s red. I’m not sure whether it’s also required to be new, but undoubtedly the shopkeepers would tell me that it is!

New Year’s is party time, often in large gatherings of friends or, if you’ve gone off skiing or something, in paid large parties at hotels, restaurants, etc. An Italian New Year’s Eve party usually involves talking, dancing, drinking (though rarely to excess), and continuous eating, with a big feast after the stroke of midnight. This feast always includes lentils because, the more lentils you eat, the more money you will earn in the new year.

Another holiday tradition in Italy is gambling. This is about the only time of year that I see Italian families play cards or table games. The traditional games are mercante in fiera (“The merchant at the fair,” a card game about trading for goods), briscola (another card game), and tombola (bingo), all usually played for small sums of money.

For a big party one year, our friend Sandro created a quiz-show style game with questions in categories (history, sports, etc.), played in teams of four. Because he’s an ex-seminarian, one of Sandro’s categories was “religion.” Enrico and I are both unrepentant and unconverted survivors of religious schools. Much to our surprise, we won the whole game. We didn’t know anything about sports, but we were the only ones who could answer anything in the religion category (even though everyone else in the room would probably have claimed to be Catholic, if asked).

Everything is closed again on January 1st, and more or less back to normal on the 2nd. Then closed again on the 6th, the Feast of the Epiphany, the day that the magi arrived in Bethlehem bearing gifts. In Italian tradition, the Befana, a witchy-looking old crone, brings presents to the good kids and carbone (coal) to the bad ones. That is why you’ll see shops and stalls selling witches alongside Santa Clauses (an import) and lumps of black sugar “carbone.” These days, the Befana is an excuse for kids to extort yet more presents from everybody. Perhaps this is forgivable, since the Epiphany is the end of the holiday season; school starts again on the 7th.