Category Archives: bio

International Broadcasting Conference 2005

above: This sign outside IBC will be funny to Firefly fans, and no one else.

I’m just back from IBC, the International Broadcasting Conference (at least I assume that’s what it stands for), in Amsterdam. It’s all about technology for television – from cameras and lights to satellites and set-top boxes. Most of the equipment and software are far beyond the reach or needs of a video beginner like me. But that’s what we would have said about video cameras not that long ago, so I amused myself in speculation about how soon some of these tools would move into the hands of “prosumers,” and then rank amateurs. And I formulated some ideas about how I could help that happen.

The biggest stand was Sony’s, demonstrating HD (high definition) TV. They and several others had sets crammed with intricate objects and, in several cases, live people, so that you could truly appreciate the fine resolution of the HD videocameras there for testing. Three of these displays had women getting made up by professional makeup artists. Actually, one of them was getting full body paint, which might have been interesting if I’d felt like standing around to watch it. The point was to look through the cameras at the level of detail that could be achieved. I noted that one camera had been left zoomed in on the model’s rear end – not a lot of detail there.

Sony also had a huge screen to display the output of its HD cameras, with a beautifully shot and skillfully edited sequence of breathtaking images. After their own ten-minute ad, they ran a teaser for a film, also presumably shot in HD, called “Mystic India.” I don’t go in for that whole mystic India shtick, but the footage was so amazing that I’ll have to track down and buy this film.

Show tchotchkes (give-aways) are not what they used to be – mostly cheap pens, and it seemed as if every stand was offering a drawing for an iPod, as a way to get your business card. I did get a logo-printed stopwatch from some company, advertising the speed of its processors. The only company giving t-shirts was Adobe, so I now have a nice Adobe t-shirt (black) with the IBC logo on the back. And, perhaps even better, they gave me a two-DVD set with trial software and video tutorials on how to use it. I was entranced by the demos of their professional film and audio editing software. (Down, girl! You don’t have time to play that hard.) But I stayed away from the Apple booths – drooling over computers is so unattractive.

One of the coolest things I saw was fuel cell camera batteries, from a company called Jadoo – which must have been founded by an Indian, because jadoo means “magic” in Hindi. And magic it is: battery packs for professional camera operators, no bigger or heavier or more expensive than the traditional rechargeables, but with longer shooting times, and environmentally friendly: just attach a small cylinder of hydrogen to the recharging unit, and the only emission is a bit of water vapor.

I overload quickly at hyperkinetic events like this; when you’ve got an attention surplus, an environment in which everything is moving and talking and visually extremely attractive is a constant assault on the senses. And it’s physically tiring standing or ambling around hall after hall. Everyone at these shows soon becomes miserable, and will listen to any sales pitch, if they can sit down in the meantime.

As for Amsterdam itself, I barely saw it. The first night we ended up going back to our hotel (way the hell out somewhere – everything in town was booked) for a very mediocre meal. Saturday night we had dinner at an authentic Dutch restaurant (a student hangout, really). A bit too authentic. I was surprised to find that the Netherlands are behind Italy in one sign of civilization: smoking is still allowed in restaurants, and there isn’t even a separate smoking section. So the restaurant was very smoky, and I’m paying for it now with lung and sinus congestion. The dinner, at least, was excellent: the best liver I’ve ever eaten, sliced thin and very tender, topped with fried onions and bacon. And some pretty decent fries. With mayonnaise, of course.

On Sunday, I met up with Jan and Joel, two American vloggers in town for this week’s VlogEurope meet-up. It’s always fun to meet face-to-face with people you’ve met through email or video; you sort of know each other, but there’s plenty left to discover. After that I got together with Woodstock alumnae, two of whom I hadn’t seen since schooldays, and another I’d never met at all. This was the opposite of the earlier meeting: these were people with whom I had had little or no contact in 25 years, yet we still (and always will) have a great deal in common at the most fundamental level.

“What Do You Do?” Not Defining Oneself in Terms of Work in Italy

“All societies throughout history have had work right at their center; but ours – particularly America’s – is the first to suggest that it could be something other than a punishment or penance. Ours is the first to imply that a sane human being would want to work even if he wasn’t under financial pressure to do so. We are unique, too, in allowing our choice of work to define who we are, so that the central question we ask of new acquaintances is not where they come from or who their parents are but, rather, what it is they do – as though only this could effectively reveal what gives a human life its distinctive timbre.”

Alain de Botton “Workers of the World, Relax”- New York Times, September 6, 2004

An American meeting another American for the first time usually asks: “What do you do [for a living]?” As Botton suggests, this may be because, to an American, what you do for a living is a choice that reveals much about who you are. The question may also (consciously or un-) be intended to establish relative economic status. Personally, I like to know what people do simply to find some connection on which to hang a conversation.

In Italy, the question is so unusual that I’ve stopped asking. For most Italians, most of the time, there’s simply no need to ask: you hang out mostly with your paesani (hometown folks), about whom you already know everything. When you do meet new people, it’s often in the context of work, so again there’s no need to ask.

Italians more often define themselves in terms of where they come from (paese) and who their family is. No one has a choice about these things, but many Italians don’t have much choice about their work, either. They may choose their field of study, but even that is often strongly influenced by the family. When seeking a job, most are heavily constrained by the tight job market and their need, both economic and psychological, to stay close to home – job satisfaction is a very secondary consideration.

The Soul of a School

Woodstock School was founded in 1854, for the daughters of American Protestant missionaries and of British civil and military personnel in India. Like most British and American schools of its time, it was founded on a strongly Christian ethic and tradition, aiming to instill Christian values and knowledge in its pupils. Woodstock girls were trained to become good wives and mothers, teachers, and missionaries. Given the context and the times, no one thought this objectionable.

The school has always been Christian, but it also has a long history of welcoming children of every race and creed, a tradition which has been vigorously defended by some of its most influential administrators.

In my day (1977-81), Woodstock had just begun a fundamental shift, still not entirely played out today, from “Christian” to “International Christian.” This was the solution determined by Bob Alter (principal, and himself a Woodstock grad, missionary, and a Presbyterian minister) to the rapid decline in the numbers of missionaries in India. Woodstock’s “natural” student body was disappearing, and, for the school to survive, new types of students had to be recruited. My own class of ’81 was 1/3 North American (mostly “mish kids” – missionaries’ childen), 1/3 Indian, and 1/3 “other.”

The staff, however, were still primarily mission-supported. Woodstock salaries were so miserable that, for an American, British, New Zealand, etc. family to be able to come, they needed other funding. Various missions paid travel and moving expenses, and sometimes topped up salaries. A later innovation was for money to be put into a fund back home against the family’s return, so that they’d have some hope of being able to afford college for their own children in their native countries.

To come to Woodstock to teach was therefore a huge commitment and, indeed, leap of faith. A few made the leap because they wanted to “convert the heathen,” but most, while they actively sought a Christian and/or international environment, were primarily interested in the teaching. They were highly motivated and effective teachers (they had to be), and it’s a rare alumnus who does not remember with affection and gratitude at least one special teacher. The staff, in turn, seem to feel amply rewarded: many have said that Woodstock students were the best they ever taught (and not just academically).

Still, there was a mismatch between the almost entirely Christian staff and the not-so-Christian-anymore student body. There were religious tensions in the school in my time, as there had been before and perhaps always will be. Speaking for myself, I arrived at the school a raving atheist, and nothing in four years of being preached at changed my mind. Very few students have been converted to Christianity during their Woodstock years; if proselytizing was ever the aim, it has failed miserably. But I don’t think conversion was ever anyone’s primary goal at Woodstock, nor, in spite of occasional staff excesses, was it ever on the school’s agenda.

Symbolic of Woodstock’s commitment to Christianity in my day was weekly chapel attendance, required of all students. I argued and won the point that, as a non-believer, this was a waste of time for me, and I should be allowed to non-disruptively read a book during the service. (I was once told off by a senior for reading “The Passions of the Mind” – he probably thought it was a dirty book!) The services weren’t wholly wasted on me; I enjoyed the singing, especially the least-politically-correct hymn in the book, “Onward, Christian Soldiers” (music by Arthur Sullivan – what’s not to like?).

Services were led by the school chaplain, but, given the variety and intensity of religious feeling among the staff, there was plenty of participation to keep things non-denominational (though strictly Protestant).

Many students largely ignored the content of chapel, seeing it, at best, as an excuse to dress up and be seen, otherwise merely a dull period of time to be passed in whispered conversation (when we could get away with it) or passing notes.

But even chapel was destined for change. During our senior year, our senior privilege of not going to chapel every Sunday was diluted by the fact that chapel became “non-compulsory” for all high school grades, except for one or two required services per semester. Instead, we had brief devotions during the thrice-weekly school assemblies, a tradition which continues to this day.

A further innovation in our time was allowing devout students of other religions to go to temples and mosques in town, especially during important festivals.

Religious education was (and is) required through high school; in 9th grade we studied the Old Testament, in 10th grade the New. All I remember of either is a skit in which Chris, referring to Teeran, said “My brother [Esau] is an hairy man” – which Teeran certainly was! In 11th and 12th grade we could choose more in-depth Bible studies, or World Religions, or Ethics.

Today [2005], the requirements are:

  • Introduction to World Religions (Grade 9; 1 semester, 1/4 credit)
  • The Historical Development of Religious Ideas (Grade 10; 1 semester, 1/4 credit)
  • 11th and 12th Grade Courses (Students are required to take at least one of the following semester-length courses each year. All carry 1/4 credit. Students choose one option from Group A and one from Group B):

    Group A Courses (specifically related to the Bible or Christianity):
    Introduction to Christianity
    The Gospel of John
    Old Testament Survey
    Paul’s Epistles

    Group B Courses (related to religion in a general sense):
    The Search for Meaning in Life
    Religions of Indian Origin
    Religions of Semitic Origin
    Contemporary Social and Ethical Issues


If I were a student at Woodstock today, I would probably argue against having to take any specifically Christian courses at all. However, given that required study of Christianity has been pared down to one semester, I can live with it. Christianity is a large part of many of the world’s cultures today, so it’s valuable for students of all religions to know something about it.

As for daily life among the Christians… I was (and am) a person of strong opinions, and, like most teenagers, I did not keep them to myself. I had it in for the missionaries, especially after some informed me that I was destined for hell if I didn’t believe as they believed. I had a furious argument with the teacher of our 9th grade religion class (who was also the school chaplain) about the unfairness of condemning to hell some hypothetical New Guinean who had never heard of Christ. His response, if I recall correctly, was that this was why it was so important for missionaries to reach every corner of the world with their message. I couldn’t (and can’t) fathom a belief which condemns people who don’t happen to have heard of the “correct” god in time to save themselves.

Some of my mish kid peers, being stubbornly opinionated teens themselves, were more aggressive than any staff member in proselytizing to other students, using well-worn lines imbibed from their parents. I furiously asked one boy why he kept hounding me. “If you found a wonderful fruit in the forest that no one had ever tasted, wouldn’t you want to share it with the world?” he asked. “Sure,” I answered. “But I wouldn’t shove it down their throats!” (He walked right into that one: having religion “shoved down our throats” was a frequent complaint among non-Christian students.)

At the ripe old age of 42, I have not changed my opinions about religious fundamentalism of any stripe: I firmly believe that religion, taken to extremes as it so often is, is one of the world’s great evils, leading only to strife, oppression, and bloodshed. There is much good in most religions, but it’s so often overwhelmed by misuse that all I can see is a net loss to humanity, sadly outweighing the undoubted benefit to many individuals.

However… I have learned to appreciate the non-proselytizing work that is the main focus of most missionaries worldwide. Their motivation may come from something I don’t believe in, but building and staffing schools and hospitals is good work by anyone’s definition, and I can only admire the dedication and courage shown by so many. The best staff at Woodstock were more concerned with living a Christian life themselves than with telling others how to live one. In those people I saw true Christianity at work, and they probably made more converts by example than anyone ever did by preaching. Not converts to Christianity, but to the true Christian spirit of giving and caring and looking out for one’s fellow human beings.

Doris Silver, the girls’ dorm supervisor, was one such. Being in-loco mom to over 100 teenage girls is a full-time job (which she did very well, but that’s another story), and she also had a family of her own. But Mrs. Silver was a trained nurse, and could not bear not to put those skills to good use. She ran a weekly clinic for the school servants and their families, treating minor illnesses and injuries which otherwise might have been left to worsen, and referring major cases to the hospital, where they might not have gone without Mrs. Silver’s urging.

I cared enough about Mrs. Silver’s feelings that I didn’t want to argue religion with her, and she never pushed it on anybody. She made it clear that she loved me no matter what I believed, and her God did, too. “I don’t believe in God,” I said to her once. “That’s all right,” she said. “God believes in you.” Which is probably the most generous statement I have ever heard from a true believer. A god who loves me even if I don’t worship him? I could almost believe in a god like that.

The Christian values demonstrated by Mrs. Silver and others “infected” most of us. My own class was probably less than half practicing Christians, yet many of my classmates, mish kids and non-, have gone on to careers serving humanity in one way or another. Would that have happened at any “typical” school?

After kicking and screaming about religion throughout my high school years, now, with 25 years of hindsight, I don’t regret Woodstock’s Christianity. Despite a few poisoned (and poisonous) apples among staff and students, Christianity has been a good thing for Woodstock students, and can continue to be so if handled correctly.

Woodstock today doesn’t wear its Christianity on its sleeve as much as it used. This is due both to internal policy and to changes in the outside world. I happened to be at the school for “homecoming” weekend in 1998, when new Principal David Jeffery made his first speech to Woodstock alumni. I was pleasantly astonished that he spoke for 40 minutes without once mentioning God. During a 1996 visit, I had been amused to overhear staff saying: “The principal’s back, we’d better show up in chapel this Sunday.” Two years later, it was no longer an issue – staff can go to chapel or not, as they please, without fear of executive disapproval.

There are practical and ethical reasons for Woodstock to be less overtly Christian in modern India, a country which often suffers “communal” (religious) strife and bloodshed. The Indian constitution firmly establishes India as a secular country, and it behooves one of India’s premier schools to uphold this important tenet.

On the other plate of the balance we must place the fact that the school’s land and buildings are largely held in trust by the Church of North India and the United Methodist Church, which could withdraw their support and take back their buildings if Woodstock were to become completely non-Christian.

There is also a delicate balancing act to be performed in staff recruiting. Some staff, especially some who are themselves alumni and former mish kids, are attracted by the idea of teaching in a Christian school. But there aren’t enough of these people to staff the school completely, and modern Woodstock needs a wider range of personnel. As recently as two years ago, staff recruitment materials on the school website showed such a strong Christian bias that some potential applicants were put off. The website now says simply: “All applicants are expected to state their willingness to support the statements of philosophy and purpose expressed in the School’s Mission Statement and to be comfortable with working in a largely Christian environment. As a Christian international school, we especially welcome applications from people with a Christian commitment.”

Summing it all up, I feel that Woodstock is in about the right place as regards its Christian identity and expressions thereof. There is a healthy mix of religions (and everything else) among staff, and all are free to express their religious feelings (or not) as they choose, for example in devotions during Assembly. That some staff are more publicly Christian makes them part of the broad spectrum of humanity that we hope Woodstock students are learning to appreciate and get along with.

India Vlog 2005: August 15 – India’s Independence Day

We left the Gordon House around noon; the hotel driver took us to Yuti and Sumeet’s house. It was a long drive, so we had plenty of time to observe Independence Day celebrations. Street vendors were selling cheap plastic flags, and everybody had at least one. I saw one dwelling that was just a sheet of blue plastic stretched between a wall and the pavement – with a flag tucked into the top. It seemed indicative of India’s mood that even someone living on the street in a tiny triangular space felt proud enough of his motherland to buy a flag to celebrate her independence.

Our original plan was just to drop our luggage and join Deepu for lunch, but Ross decided she’d rather stay at Yuti and Summet’s and sleep. So it was just Deepu and me for a long conversation over an amazing lunch – one of the best meals of the trip, at a restaurant called The Patio. Deepu wanted me to have authentic Mumbai-style food, so we had tandoori crab, a “dry” dish of curried shrimp, and a “wet” dish of curried fish, all of it amazingly good. I was also amazed at the service. Indian restaurants are oversupplied with staff, so we were constantly being offered fresh fingerbowls, our water being poured, etc. Not that the attention was unwelcome, especially the fingerbowls as we peeled crab and shrimp by hand.

NB: NOT on the menu!

I spent the afternoon with Deepu and Shilpin talking of this and that, then their driver took me back to Yuti and Sumeet’s, where we ordered in Tibetan food (I had absolutely no need to eat!) and watched the Ashes cricket test match on TV, which Sumeet (a former cricket professional) and Yuti tried valiantly to explain.

When that was over, it was time to depart for the airport in Yuti’s car, which had just had its wiring totally redone after being immersed to the roof in the Mumbai floods. The upholstery had been cleaned and sterilized, but a faintly swampy smell lingered, and when we alighted at the airport I realized that the seat of my jeans was damp, a final souvenir.

India Vlog 2005: Arriving in Delhi

The voices are myself and Kishore, our driver from Uday Travel.

We arrived after midnight at Indira Gandhi International Airport, and proceeded down the hall to a marble staircase, with a man-sized bronze statue of Ganesh at the top brightly polished and freshly garlanded, welcoming us to India, then down the stairs to the immigration line. I noted fancy new immigration counters, and the same old grim-faced immigration officials.

“What’s that smell?” asked Ross. As soon as we had stepped off the plane, I had noted, happily, the familiar smell of India, but I had to think a moment about exactly what it was comprised of. “Burning charcoal for cooking fires. Jet fuel, since we’re at the airport. And Dettol, a disinfectant used for cleaning.”

Standing there in the line, we sprayed ourselves with mosquito repellent. “It’s not likely that we’d get malaria,” I said, “especially since we’re taking the anti-malaria pills. But we’ll take every precaution. In the monsoon season, there are more mosquitoes around. The bad thing about malaria is that, once you’ve got it, you never get rid of it.”

A chubby American in line ahead of us turned and asked in alarm, “Really?” He had flown in from Portland on business. This was his second trip to India, and apparently no one had told him much of anything. I explained that he could get his hotel to send someone to a pharmacy for the anti-malarial medications, and that keeping covered up and sprayed against mosquitoes should see him safe.

After this guy and yesterday’s Italian couple, I wondered how many people come to India completely unprepared. No wonder some end up having horrible experiences and hating it!

NB: Italy’s public health system provides medical advice for travellers. I was familiar with the very efficient and expert office in Milan (via Senato), from all my previous trips and vaccinations. In Lecco, we had to make an appointment a month in advance, then were lectured by a nurse, reading from a booklet, who knew a great deal less about tropical medicine than I did, and became agitated when I interrupted her flow to ask specific questions. But she did have all the information we needed; when I mentioned recent reports of meningitis in Delhi, she took out a binder full of bulletins from the World Health Organization, and was able to give me the latest info (which was: situation under control).

As it turned out , Ross had already had almost every vaccination she needed. Like all Italian kids, she had been vaccinated against Hepatitis B in middle school, and she’d had tetanus shots for horseback riding. So the only shot she needed was Hepatitis A, and we both took an oral vaccine against typhoid. The nurse also prescribed two kinds of malaria prophylaxis, which we faithfully took throughout the trip and for the required four weeks after our return).

We got through immigration (with my usual huge sigh of relief), waited a bit for our luggage, gave our forms to the customs man, and were free to go. As always, there was man waiting to meet us, holding up a sign with “Mrs. Straughan” on it. Delhi is not safe for women at night, and there have been “incidents” (robbery, rape, and murder) even with the supposedly reliable pre-paid taxis that you book at the airport counter as you exit. So I pre-arrange to be met at every stop in or out of Delhi, by my trusted travel agency, Uday Travel.

This sometimes feels like wimping out – after all, I’ve travelled a lot in India, alone and on a very low budget! But I’m not that poor anymore, and I can afford to spare myself some hassles, especially when it’s my daughter’s first trip, and I don’t want either of us to get overtired, stressed, and ill.

The agent and driver took us to the Connaught Hotel, near Connaught Place in central Delhi, helped get us checked in, and took the rest of my payment for all the arrangements (hotels, trains, and cars) that I had made with Uday Travel via email months before. We went up to our room and collapsed.

Note to self: Next time, I’ll pay more to stay in a better hotel. Every time I’ve stayed at the Connaught, over 10 years of travel, there is some kind of construction going on, and people coming and going noisily all night. And the beds are uncomfortable. Back in November I stayed at the Park, also near Connaught, which was a lot nicer, and cost a lot more ($120 vs. $70 – hotels in Delhi are not cheap).

It was around 3 am when we finally got to sleep, but I woke up early, as usual, and eventually persuaded Ross to get up. We had the included hotel breakfast – a choice of western fare (with dubious-looking sausages), or south Indian idlis: steamed rice flour cakes, tasteless on their own, but eaten with sambar, a thin, spicy vegetable soup, and a rich coconut chutney. And Indian-style coffee, which is… drinkable.

The car and driver I’d hired for the day were waiting for us outside the hotel. First stop was a tiny shop – about two meters wide by four deep – providing all kinds of telephone services: private phone booths from which to make local, long distance, or international calls, and cellphone plans and top-ups. I bought a local SIM card for Ross’ cellphone (Rs. 500 – about $10), and Rs. 700 of talk time – of which you actually get to use about Rs. 500. They take off a ridiculous amount in service fees for each chunk of talk time you buy. The fees would probably be proportionally less if you bought in larger chunks, but not many shops can handle larger transactions.

So we were back in touch with the world, or at least with Italy and Ross’ boyfriend. Enrico was in the US with a home phone that he was rarely near, and no cellphone.

We were also now in easy touch with my friends and classmates all over India. I called Sara in Ahmedabad to find out how her family had come through the floods in Mumbai. One of her sisters had had to walk til 4 am in neck-deep water to find her son at school. Stories eventually came in from others: Yuti’s husband Sumeet slept two nights in his office, and Yuti’s car, waiting for her in the garage back home, was completely immersed in water. Deepu and Shilpin were trying to get back to Mumbai from Mussoorie via Delhi, and, after hours waiting for any flight at all to depart, spent more hours circling Mumbai while air traffic cleared after the airport finally reopened.

But they all counted their blessings. Mumbai had been hit with 94 cm of rain in 24 hours, a record even for India. About 1200 people died in the water or in mudslides. As usual, the poor suffered most, as their fragile “hutments” were swept away or crushed by falling hillsides. Communications went out, and Mumbai, the financial capital of India, ground to a halt.

photo by Ross

Delhi, in the meantime, was hot and dry. Ross and I went briefly to the National Museum, which had some very interesting collections, not all of them well-lighted, and few offering much explanation. She soon tired of that, and wanted to go shopping.

Connaught Place, though annoying with people trying to sell you things or take you places, has plenty of shops. I hadn’t been able to find my comfy walking sandals in our voluminous suitcase, so we first went to an upscale shoestore, where I got a nice pair for Rs. 1700. At the hole-in-the-wall shop next door, Ross bought a pair of red-beaded slippers – a purchase she’d been looking forward to – for Rs. 650.

We stopped in a Levi’s store; at Rs. 2700 per pair, I could afford jeans in Delhi far more easily than in Lecco, but Ross couldn’t find a style that she’d wear back in Europe. Levi’s may be an American company, but its jeans are localized: fashion-conscious teens in Delhi do not wear the same jeans as their peers in New York or Milan. My hopes of reducing the back-to-school wardrobe budget were dashed. (I subsequently learned that there’s a shop in Connaught Place called Wow! Jeans which will MAKE your jeans, in any style and material you like – including leather – to order, fast, and cheap.)

The afternoon we spent resting in the cool of our hotel room. In the evening, we went to the sound and light show at the Red Fort.

 

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